High altitude breathing apparatus is a breathing apparatus which allows a person to breathe more effectively at an altitude where the partial pressure of oxygen in the ambient atmospheric air is insufficient for the task or to sustain consciousness or human life over the long or short term.
High altitude breathing sets may be classified by type in several ways:
Any given unit is a member of several types.
Both rebreather and open circuit equipment have been used in this application, where either pure oxygen or supplemental oxygen is provided by the equipment. Minor leakage in either direction usually only affects efficiency and gas endurance, as the ambient air is usually only hypobaric due to low ambient pressure.
At very high altitude, from arterial oxygen saturation falls below 90% and arterial PO2 is reduced to the extent that extreme hypoxemia may occur during exercise and sleep, and if high altitude pulmonary edema occurs. In this range severe altitude illness is common.
At extreme altitude, above , one can expect significant hypoxemia, hypocapnia and alkalosis, with progressive deterioration of physiological function, which exceeds acclimatisation. Consequently, there is no human habitation in this altitude range.
Above this is the zone where 100% oxygen at ambient pressure is insufficient, and some form of pressurisation is required to provide a viable inhalation oxygen pressure. The options are partial pressurisation using and full pressurisation in .
The physiological-deficient zone extends from to about . In this zone there is an increased risk of hypoxia, trapped-gas dysbarism (where gas trapped in the body expands), and evolved-gas dysbarism (where dissolved gases such as nitrogen may form in the tissues, i.e. decompression sickness). Above approximately oxygen-rich Breathing gas is required to approximate the oxygen available in the lower atmosphere, while above oxygen must be provided under positive pressure. Above , respiration is not possible because the pressure at which the lungs excrete carbon dioxide (approximately 87 mmHg) exceeds outside air pressure. Above , known as the Armstrong limit, exposed fluids in the throat and lungs will boil away at normal body temperature, and pressure suits are needed. Generally, 100% oxygen is used to maintain an equivalent altitude of .
The death zone altitude is or above.
In aviation, there is generally no opportunity to acclimatise, and the necessity for breathing apparatus generally assumes that the user starts the flight at or near sea level.
The amount of supplementary oxygen needed to bring the inhaled partial pressure to sea level equivalent, or any other fixed value greater than that of the ambient atmosphere is a function of the altitude, and increases with an increase in altitude in direct proportion to pressure drop. The amount of supplementary oxygen actually used is also proportional to respiratory minute volume, which depends on the level of exertion.
Both chemically generated and compressed gas oxygen have been used in experimental closed-circuit oxygen mountaineering systems, but open circuit has mostly been used, although relatively wasteful, as the equipment is more reliable. For mountaineering at high altitudes where the user has to carry the stored oxygen, open circuit demand or closed circuit may be used to maximise endurance of the set.
Breathing pure oxygen results in an elevated partial pressure of oxygen in the blood: a climber breathing pure oxygen at the summit of Mt. Everest has a greater arterial oxygen partial pressure than breathing air at sea level. This results in being able to exert greater physical effort at altitude. The exothermic carbon dioxide absorption reaction of a rebreather helps keep the scrubber contents from freezing while it is in use, and helps reduce heat loss from the user, but is vulnerable to freezing during periods when it is not in active use.
Unpressurised aircraft and high altitude parachuting have similar requirements and working environment to mountaineering, but weight is less of a problem.
There is a risk of pulmonary oxygen toxicity if the pressure of the oxygen exceeds about 0.5 bar for extended periods, which could happen at altitudes below 5500 m, where atmospheric pressure is about half of the value at sea level.
A closed circuit oxygen rebreather is the most efficient in terms of oxygen use, but is relatively bulky and requires the use of a carbon dioxide absorbent, which must either be sufficient for the oxygen supply, or must be periodically replaced. If the oxygen supply fails, the loop gas can become more hypoxic than ambient atmosphere if the loop was not adequately purged or if it gets contaminated by ambient air. In the absence of oxygen monitoring the user may not notice the reduction in oxygen concentration.
An additional potential advantage of a rebreather is that the carbon dioxide scrubbing reaction is exothermic, and keeps the gas in the breathing circuit warm if sufficiently insulated, and it conserves humidity, reducing dehydration. The disadvantages include the weight of the scrubber and the problems of the humidity condensing in the circuit and freezing, which can block the gas passages and choke the scrubber. If the scrubber freezes it must be defrosted before the reaction can resume, and will take some time to warm up to a temperature at which the reaction is sufficient.
Pressure swing adsorption oxygen concentrators use a molecular sieve to adsorb gases and operate on the principle of rapid pressure swing adsorption of atmospheric nitrogen onto zeolite minerals at high pressure. This type of adsorption system is therefore functionally a nitrogen scrubber, leaving the other atmospheric gases to pass through, with oxygen as the primary gas remaining. Gas separation across a membrane is also a pressure-driven process, where the driving force is the difference in pressure between inlet of raw material and outlet of product. The membrane used in the process is a generally non-porous layer, so there will not be a severe leakage of gas through the membrane. The performance of the membrane depends on permeability and selectivity. Permeability is affected by the penetrant size. Larger gas molecules have a lower diffusion coefficient. The membrane gas separation equipment typically pumps gas into the membrane module and the targeted gases are separated based on difference in diffusivity and solubility. Product gas can be delivered directly to the user through a suitable breathing apparatus.
Pulse dose (also called intermittent-flow or on-demand) portable oxygen concentrators are the smallest units, which may weigh as little as Their small size enables the user to waste less of the energy gained from the treatment on carrying them. The unit administers a set volume (bolus) of oxygen enriched air at the start of each breath, which is the part of the breath most likely to reach the gas exchange regions of the lung beyond the physiological dead space. Their ability to make efficient use of oxygen is key to keeping the units compact.
Commercial aircraft provide emergency oxygen to passengers to protect them in case of loss of cabin pressure. The cockpit crew are typically supplied from compressed oxygen cylinders. The oxidizer core is sodium chlorate (Sodium Chlorine Oxygen3), which is mixed with less than 5 percent barium peroxide (barium Oxygen2) and less than 1 percent potassium perchlorate (potassium chlorine oxygen4). The explosives in the percussion cap are a lead styphnate and tetrazene explosive mixture. The chemical reaction is exothermic and the exterior temperature of the canister will reach . It will produce oxygen for 12 to 22 minutes.
Chemical oxygen generation is commonly used on large commercial aircraft as a source for the emergency oxygen system for passengers in pressurised cabins. The system is light and usually designed as a dispersed system to provide about 10 minutes supply of supplemental oxygen while the aircraft makes an emergency descent. The system cannot be deactivated once triggered, and must be reloaded after each use.
On-board oxygen generating systems (OBOGS) bleed compressed air from the engines, enrich the oxygen content by removing nitrogen using an oxygen concentrator, and regulate the supply to cabin pressure and temperature. They are continuously available and producing fresh gas when the engine is running.
Liquid oxygen (LOX) is used in some jet aircraft because it is lighter and requires less space than high pressure gas storage.
The PBE must protect the user from smoke, carbon dioxide, and other harmful gases while on flight deck duty or fighting a fire, and must include a mask covering the eyes, nose and mouth (full facepiece) or the nose and mouth (orinasal mask) with additional eye protection. The facepiece must allow effective communication with other crew members and use of radio equipment. The eye protection must allow glasses to be worn and not adversely affect vision.
The equipment must supply breathing gas for all users for at least 15 minutes at a cabin altitude of 8,000 ft at a respiratory minute volume of 30 liters per minute, either by continuous flow or via a demand system, and must not cause a significant increase in oxygen content of the local environment.
Although there is considerable similarity in the basic conditions in which aviation and mountaineering breathing apparatus is used, there are differences sufficient to make directly transferable use of equipment generally impracticable. One of the major considerations is that, unlike the aviator, the mountaineer cannot quickly descend to a safe altitude if the equipment fails, so it must be reliable. Another is that the mountaineer must personally carry the breathing apparatus, so the advantage gained by breathing supplemental oxygen must exceed the disadvantage of carrying the extra bulk and weight of the equipment. Other requirements are that the added work of breathing must be low, the equipment must function at low temperatures, and conservation of heat and moisture are desirable. The altitude range for mountaineering is also limited, there are no requirements for pressurisation.
The theoretically available delivery systems are: a constant flow system without reservoir, which is simple and reliable, but extremely wasteful, a constant flow system with reservoir, which when matched to the user demand is more efficient than simple constant flow, and is also relatively simple and reliable, a demand valve system, which automatically follows user demand, but also wastes a significant part of inhaled gas on dead space, a pulse dose demand system, which wastes less gas on dead space, but relies on a relatively complex control system which introduces reliability issues, or a closed circuit system, which is very efficient, but requires a carbon dioxide scrubber, which is bulky and heavy, and is sensitive to freezing when not in constant use. The constant flow system using a reservoir mask has been used mostly because it is relatively reliable.
The Poisk regulator is a constant flow device which can be adjusted between 1 and 4 litres per minute in 0.25 litre per minute increments. It has a mass of 0.35 kg.
The Summit system used a small mask with nasal cannula and delivered oxygen in pulses, activated by the pressure drop at the start of inhalation. This is an efficient system for gas use, and less gas needs to be carried, but it relies on electronics and batteries which do not last well in the low temperatures. It also less bulky and obstructs the view less than the rebreather mask systems The system was found to be unreliable and Summit reverted to the constant flow system. The silicone cannula is still available as a medical component.
The Summit Oxygen system marketed in 2023 uses a constant flow regulator with steps of 0.5 litres per minute up to a maximum of 4 litres per minute. An innovation is that the flow rate selector is on the supply hose where it can be reached easily and therefor is likely to be adjusted more frequently to suit current exertion, thereby making more efficient use of the oxygen. The cylinders used are 4 litre 300 bar with a mass of 3.89 kg when full. An ambient air inlet valve prevents inhaling ambient air until the oxygen in the reservoir has been inhaled, and the exhaust valve provides enough back pressure to divert exhaled gas to the reservoir bag at the beginning of exhalation, when it contains very little carbon dioxide as it was in physiological dead space.
Climbers sometimes carried only two cylinders each. Four cylinders contained a total of 960 litres of oxygen, which would last for eight hours at the standard rate of 2 litres per minute or seven hours at 2.2 L/min. The attempt on Everest by George Mallory and Andrew Irvine in 1924 was the first summit attempt using oxygen on Everest. Mallory and Irvine carried two cylinders each.
The 1938 British Mount Everest expedition trialled closed-circuit as well as open-circuit apparatus, but the closed-circuit apparatus was not successful.
Two days after Bourdillon and Evans, the second assault party of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit with a much improved 22 lb open circuit continuous flow system. After ten minutes taking photographs on the summit without using his oxygen set, Hillary said he "was becoming rather clumsy-fingered and slow-moving".
John Hunt considered that two assault parties using the experimental closed-circuit type was too risky despite users having achieved a faster climbing rate and also potentially having a greater range for a given supply (so that it might be possible to reach the summit from a camp on the South Col). Hence he proposed one closed-circuit assault followed shortly by an open-circuit assault (and a third assault if necessary). The cylinders used were dural light-alloy cylinders holding 800 litres or RAF steel wire-wound cylinders holding 1,400 litres of oxygen (both at 3,300 p.s.i.; 227.5 bar or 22.75 MPa). The expedition had 8 closed-circuit and 12 open-circuit sets; the open-circuit set used 1 RAF cylinder or 1, 2 or 3 dural cylinders; with total set weight 28 lb, 18 lb, 29lb or 41 lb (12.7, 8.2, 13.4 or 18.6 kg). Sleepers above used "night oxygen" at 1 litre/minute; and with adaptors they could use oxygen from tanks by Drägerwerk the Swiss had left behind in 1952. Both open-circuit and closed-circuit sets iced up; the closed-circuit sets when a new and cold soda-lime canister was inserted.
Physiologist Griffith Pugh had also been on the 1952 British Cho Oyu expedition to study the effects of cold and altitude. Pugh and Michael Ward made the following recommendations for 1953, based on experiments carried out on Menlung La at in 1952:
On 8 May 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. Messner had ascended all 14 "eight-thousanders" without supplemental oxygen by 1986.
Running out of bottled oxygen was noted as a factor in the 1979 deaths of Ray Genet and Hannelore Schmatz on Mount Everest. The Backpacker – May 1986 (Google Books link)
Russian manufacturer Poisk has supplied breathing apparatus since 1982, using a small and lightweight titanium and kevlar Filament winding cylinder of 3.5 kg with an endurance of 6 hours at 2 litres per minute, with regulators that could be adjusted in increments of 0.25 litres per minute up to 4 litres per minute. The multiple small cylinders allow for caching.
International Mountain Guides chose a larger cylinder in 1991 which could supply oxygen for 10 hours at 3 litres per minute.
By the 21st century one of the popular oxygen systems on Mount Everest used carbon-fiber reinforced aluminum bottles, with a 3-liter cylinder of oxygen weighing (3.2 kg) when filled up at . WIRED – High Trek
In 2003, Summit Oxygen introduced an experimental system with nasal cannula and demand pulse system with electrical control using a battery, but the flow rate was insufficient for the demand, and they returned to the more traditional continuous flow partial rebreather mask system.
The TopOut mask was introduced in 2004, based on the 3M R6311 respirator facepiece.
Of over 6500 Everest summits as of 2013, less than 100 were without oxygen.
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